Historically, leather has faced criticism due to its environmental footprint, particularly when compared to alternative synthetic materials. However, the newly updated Higg MSI data provides a more accurate assessment of the true impact of leather. By factoring in the industry’s sustainability advancements and more precise lifecycle data, bovine leather is now shown to have a much lower GWP than previously calculated.

This 60% reduction in GWP highlights leather’s capability to align with the modern automotive industry’s push for sustainability without sacrificing the quality and luxurious feel that leather offers. As manufacturers face increasing pressure to reduce their overall environmental impact, materials like leather, which deliver both performance and reduced environmental impact, are becoming the top choice for car interiors.

Leather offers unmatched durability, breathability, and comfort—attributes that are essential for automotive seating and interior surfaces. Its longevity ensures that it withstands the rigours of daily use, while its natural aesthetic adds a premium feel that synthetic alternatives struggle to replicate. With this new data in hand, car manufacturers can confidently opt for leather, knowing that it not only meets consumer demands for luxury but also aligns with their sustainability goals.

In a time when both consumers and regulatory bodies are focused on reducing the carbon footprints of industries, the revised Higg MSI score for bovine leather demonstrates that leather remains the superior choice for those looking to balance environmental responsibility with premium quality.

The Role of PFAS in ‘Vegan Leather’

‘Vegan leather’, used in car seats, owes much of its durability and performance to PFAS-based treatments. These treatments offer the material resistance to water, stains, and wear, which are critical factors in the automotive sector. PFAS treatments have enabled synthetic materials like vegan leather to replicate some of the benefits of genuine leather at a lower cost. However, the environmental cost is high, as PFAS are persistent chemicals that can pollute water sources and remain in the environment indefinitely. This has led to Minnesota’s decision to eliminate their use, which could create significant disruptions in vinyl leather production.

How Will the Ban Affect Automotive Seating?

This ban will force automakers that use ‘vegan leather’ for car interiors to adjust their materials and processes. Developing alternatives to PFAS that offer comparable performance will likely take time, and early options may fall short of delivering the same water—and stain-resistant qualities that automotive seating requires.

1. Performance and Durability Concerns: Without PFAS treatments, ‘vegan leather’s’ performance could suffer, particularly in areas like water resistance, stain prevention, and overall durability. This may lead to seats degrading faster or requiring more frequent maintenance, reducing their appeal to car manufacturers and consumers. ‘Vegan leather’, in this context, may lose ground as a viable option for high-performance car interiors.
2. Genuine Leather as a Superior Alternative: Genuine leather, however, naturally excels in areas where synthetic alternatives fall short. Car seats made from genuine leather provide unmatched durability, comfort, and longevity. Unlike ‘vegan leather’, which depends on chemical treatments for its performance, genuine leather requires no PFAS and maintains its qualities through natural tanning processes. Moreover, the premium feel and luxury image associated with leather make it an attractive option for consumers looking for long-lasting, high-quality interiors.
3. Sustainability Advantages: In addition to its durability, genuine leather offers environmental benefits when sourced from responsibly managed automotive tanneries. The leather industry has made strides in reducing its environmental impact through water-saving initiatives, closed-loop processes, and responsible waste management. Genuine leather also fits into the circular economy as a byproduct of the meat industry, helping to reduce waste. In contrast, ‘vegan leather’ is derived from petroleum-based materials, contributing to plastic pollution.

A Shift Toward Genuine Leather in Car Interiors

As the industry adjusts to Minnesota’s PFAS ban, car manufacturers may increasingly turn to genuine leather as a more reliable, sustainable alternative for car interiors. Not only does leather outperform vinyl in terms of durability and comfort, but it also aligns with growing consumer demands for eco-friendly products. Given the challenges of finding effective PFAS alternatives for ‘vegan leather’, genuine leather may become the material of choice for carmakers aiming to balance performance, luxury, and sustainability.

The key issues the signatories are calling on the COP forum is to…

• Recognise the cyclical, climate efficient nature of leather and its potential for a positive contribution to reducing the climate impacts of consumer products. In particular, a full and proper impact assessment of the role of leather as a driver of deforestation and the development of reliable measures of the lifespan of materials and products and their impact on consumption
• Support LCA methodologies that accurately account for the environmental impact of all materials, including end of life properties and the consequences of use and substitution.
• In keeping with the aspiration for reduced consumption, greater circularity and reduced waste, to promote ‘slow fashion’, durable products, and items that can be used many times, repaired and refurbished, and last for years.
• Wherever feasible to encourage the use of natural fibres like leather and reduce unnecessary reliance on fossil-fuel-based materials.

Please read the full manifesto below.

A Manifesto for Leather on the occasion of COP29

Buy better, buy less, buy leather

Consumption is one of the key drivers for man-made climate change. Consumers are driven to want more, buy more and ultimately discard more and more products, many of which are of poor quality, have short life spans and are designed to be discarded and replaced, rather than repair or repurposed. There is no better example of this than the fast fashion industry which uses a claimed 350 million barrels of oil a year and produces 282 billion kilogrammes of greenhouse gases from the production of polyester alone. Some 100 billion garments are produced annually with as many as 45 billion never being worn. Of those that are, most are discarded after 7-10 wears, resulting in 92 million tonnes waste going to land fill every year . This situation is only expected to get worse, with Textile Exchange reporting that consumption of polyester alone, rose from 63 million tonnes in 2022 to 71 million tonnes in 2023 . Fashion is responsible for approximately 10% of total global greenhouse gas emissions and despite The Fashion Charter, set up in 2018 to provide a pathway to net-zero emissions by 2050, emissions remain unsustainably high.

Fashion is not the only sector blighted by an excess of consumption and the related environmental impacts, including climate change. It is no surprise then, that governments around the world are developing regulations intended to reduce the impact of the products that we buy every day, driving improvement in sustainable design, circularity and extended producer responsibility. Regulations like the requirement for Digital Product Passports (DPP) in the draft EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products regulation (ESPR) will give consumers greater insight on the impact of the production of their products, as well as their expected lifespan, repairability and end of life options, allowing for better, more sustainable purchases. Keeping products for longer due to their innate durability and potential for repair will give consumers the opportunity to buy better and importantly, buy less.

Leather is an ideal material to meet these ambitions. Leather utilises an unavoidable by-product to manufacture a versatile, durable material that can be used to make long-lasting, repairable products with a huge potential for circularity. Owners will cherish their leather products, repairing them and even passing them on to subsequent owners. Products made from long-lived leather can have an undeniably positive action in reducing the climate impact of fashion and other sectors. Indeed, research has found that the climate change impacts of natural fibres in garments were negative if the number of wears was increased by 50% because emissions associated with the manufacture of a new synthetic garment were averted .

However, leather faces considerable challenges, not only from the nonsensical claims of agenda groups, which undermine brand and consumer confidence but also well-intentioned but misguided regulatory efforts. Leather is one of the derived products listed in Annex 1 of the EU Deforestation Regulation, despite there being no evidence that it is a driver of deforestation. Indeed, analysis by the School of Advanced Studies Sant’Anna has shown that demand for hides has no direct influence on the number of cattle reared and slaughtered and as such, does not drive deforestation . Furthermore, the study found that the impact of the EUDR on the leather sector could be devastating and achieve nothing for the reduction of deforestation. It could however, result in millions of hides being discarded to rot in landfill, with the associated emissions of greenhouse gases.

Similarly, giving consumers greater understanding of the expected lifetime of their products is to be welcomed but it will be essential that the measures used are evidence-based and realistic. The current proposals in the EU’s draft Product Environment Category Rules for Apparel & Footwear, which may form the basis of the DPP under the EPSR, are not and in no way represent the true lifespan of leather goods. If consumers are not told the true story of leather, they may simply opt for cheaper, short-lived synthetic products, driving consumption of fossil fuels and waste.

The undersigned note that the Framework for Action proposed by the Presidency for COP 29 includes a call for an ‘Inclusive process for inclusive outcomes’. We wholeheartedly support this call. The leather industry is constantly working towards ever greater sustainability and circularity, but our efforts will be undermined if regulators and brands do not give proper consideration to the real impacts and benefits of naturals materials like leather. We humbly request that the voice of the leather sector be heard in the development of the policies and regulations needed to combat manmade climate change.

Therefore, we, the undersigned organisations, call on the COP to endorse our call to:

• Recognise the cyclical, climate efficient nature of leather and its potential for a positive contribution to reducing the climate impacts of consumer products. In particular, a full and proper impact assessment of the role of leather as a driver of deforestation and the development of reliable measures of the lifespan of materials and products and their impact on consumption
• Support LCA methodologies that accurately account for the environmental impact of all materials, including end of life properties and the consequences of use and substitution.
• In keeping with the aspiration for reduced consumption, greater circularity and reduced waste, to promote ‘slow fashion’, durable products, and items that can be used many times, repaired and refurbished, and last for years.
• Wherever feasible to encourage the use of natural fibres like leather and reduce unnecessary reliance on fossil-fuel-based materials.Signatories to the Leather Manifesto:
  • Alliance Française du Cuir (AFC)
  • Australian Hide Skin and Leather Exporters’ Association Inc (ASHLEA)
  • Centre for the Brazilian Tanning Industry (CICB)
  • Centro Tecnológico das Indústrias do Couro (CTIC)
  • China Leather Industry Association (CLIA)
  • Confederation of National Associations of Tanners and Dressers of the European Community (COTANCE)
  • Fédération Française des Cuirs et Peaux (FFCP)
  • Fédération Française Tannerie Megisserie (FFTM)
  • International Council of Hides, Skins and Leather Traders Association (ICSHLTA)
  • International Council of Tanners (ICT)
  • International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS)
  • Leather Cluster Barcelona (LCB)
  • Leather & Hide Council of America (LHCA)
  • Leather Naturally (LN)
  • Leather UK (LUK)
  • One 4 Leather (O4L)
  • Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLTC)
  • Sustainable Leather Foundation (SLF)
  • Türkiye Deri Sanayicileri Derneği (TDSD)
  • UNIC Concerie Italiane (UNIC)
  • Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie e.V. (VDL)
  • Wirtschaftsverband Häute/Leder (WHL)
  • Zimbabwe Leather Development Council (ZLDC)

Understanding the Faux Leather Challenge

Faux leather, often sadly named vegan leather, presents significant challenges. In the Which? survey, respondents reported issues such as tearing, puncturing, and surface peeling with faux leather sofas, indicating that these problems are not isolated to home furnishings. In automotive settings, where interiors are subjected to constant wear from passengers, sunlight, and temperature fluctuations, the same vulnerabilities can lead to rapid deterioration of faux leather seats.

Faux leather materials, typically made from synthetic compounds like polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), lack genuine leather’s inherent durability and breathability. Over time, faux leather can become sticky, crack, and even emit unpleasant chemical odours. These concerns are magnified in cars, where covers must withstand daily use’s rigours while maintaining a high-end appearance.

The Advantages of Genuine Leather

In contrast, genuine leather offers several advantages, making it a superior choice for automotive interiors. Prominent for its longevity and resilience, genuine leather can endure years of use without significant wear. It naturally breathes, providing comfort in both hot and cold conditions, ensuring a comfortable journey for the driver and their passengers.

Furthermore, genuine leather is repairable. Minor scuffs and scratches can often be polished, allowing the material to maintain its pristine look and feel. This capability enhances the vehicle’s overall value, as a well-maintained leather interior can significantly increase resale value.

The Which? survey highlights the pitfalls of faux leather in sofas, serving as a cautionary tale for the automotive industry. Given the same issues of damage and deterioration, the choice becomes clear: genuine leather stands out as the best option for car interiors. Its durability, comfort, and timeless appeal make it not just an aesthetic choice but a practical one that ensures long-term satisfaction and value for car owners.

For those looking to make a wise investment in their vehicles, specifying genuine leather is the way to go. As the automotive landscape continues to evolve, ensuring quality materials like genuine leather remain at the forefront is essential for aesthetics and performance.

However, with the introduction of the EU Green Claims Directive, how these advocacy groups operate may need to change significantly. This new regulation, part of the EU’s broader Green Deal initiative, aims to ensure that environmental claims made by businesses, and potentially advocacy groups, are backed by verifiable scientific evidence. If these groups cannot prove their statements, they may face consequences, particularly if their claims influence consumer choices and affect the sale of genuine leather in cars.

The Rise of Anti-Leather Advocacy

Advocacy groups have long campaigned against the use of genuine leather, citing environmental concerns. These organisations argue that the automotive industry could significantly reduce its ecological footprint by reducing or eliminating the use of leather in car interiors.

These campaigns have had a tangible impact. Many car manufacturers have responded to public pressure by introducing synthetic alternatives marketed as “eco-friendly” or “sustainable” materials. However, while these claims are powerful marketing tools, the full environmental impact of these alternatives often goes unexamined.

Enter the EU Green Claims Directive

The EU Green Claims Directive is designed to protect consumers from false or misleading environmental claims, also known as greenwashing. It mandates that any organisation making environmental claims about a product or material must provide clear, scientific evidence to support those claims. This means that vague statements like “eco-friendly” or “sustainable” will no longer be sufficient unless they are substantiated by independent verification.

While the directive primarily targets businesses, it could also have implications for non-profit advocacy groups if they engage in spreading misinformation or unsubstantiated claims about the environmental impact of materials like leather. Given their influence on consumer behaviour and public perception, advocacy groups could face the same scrutiny as businesses regarding their claims about products such as leather used in automotive interiors.

The Impact on Genuine Leather and Automotive Sales

The EU Green Claims Directive could be a game-changer for the genuine leather industry, particularly within the automotive sector. If advocacy groups want to continue their campaigns against leather, they must present robust, scientifically backed evidence proving the negative environmental impact they claim; without this evidence, they could be accused of greenwashing.

For example, if an organisation claims that “leather car interiors contribute to deforestation and climate change” or “cows are killed to make leather,” it must now provide verifiable data supporting this statement. This data would need to be independently validated and scientifically grounded to comply with the directive. Failing to do so could undermine its credibility and open it up to penalties and legal challenges.

The Future of Leather in Cars: An Evidence-Based Approach

The automotive industry, which has increasingly explored synthetic alternatives to leather, may re-evaluate its approach as the EU Green Claims Directive comes into force. If car manufacturers are required to provide the same level of evidence for synthetic materials as they are for genuine leather, they might discover that some of the “eco-friendly” options are not as sustainable as initially believed. Many synthetic materials are produced using petrochemicals, which can have a high environmental impact, particularly in terms of emissions and resource consumption.

By presenting genuine, verified, transparent data about the lifecycle and impact of leather production and sustainable leather production practices, such as the use of by-products from the meat industry, improved tanning processes, and efforts to minimise water and energy usage, leather manufacturers and car brands can present a strong case for why leather remains a viable and sustainable option for automotive interiors, and the industry can demonstrate that leather is, in fact, a more sustainable choice than its alternatives. This approach aligns with the directive’s focus on transparency, ensuring that consumers have access to accurate information when making decisions about the interiors of their vehicles.

Advocacy Groups: A New Era of Accountability

For advocacy groups, the EU Green Claims Directive signals a new era of accountability. If they wish to continue their campaigns against leather use, they must do so with scientifically verified data rather than relying on generalised statements or unproven assumptions. The directive’s emphasis on transparency and evidence-based claims will ensure that public debate about materials like leather is based on facts rather than rhetoric.

This could reshape the dialogue surrounding genuine leather in automotive applications, encouraging a more balanced view of its environmental impact. If the leather industry presents verified evidence of its sustainable practices and counter unsubstantiated claims from advocacy groups, it could maintain its position as a preferred and sustainable option for car interiors.